After making our way yesterday from Brindisi to just outside Gallipoli, through Lecce, we were destined to head into Gallipoli today.
It was a sunny start to the day, but way too early. We’re right next to the loos at this site and the cleaners were chatting loudly to each other and even having phone calls at 6:30 this morning. So we were ready, after showers and breakfast, long before the shuttle to Gallipoli (derived from Greek for beautiful city).
The shuttle driver spoke no English at all, so other than knowing we were heading somewhere into town, we didn’t really understand the options. Later we realized that he was also going to the town market that was on today. We weren’t particularly interested in that so it was fine that he dropped us off at the port.
The shuttle service was perfectly adequate, but I would have preferred a working seat belt in the front 🤷♂️
We then headed into the old town over the bridge.
Had a coffee to start off the day and then wandered around for the next 3 hours.
The cathedral is a bit bizarre. And I guess easily explained by the small island nature of the old town. But for such an ornate and imposing building it sits within just a few feet of its neighboring shops and houses. You really struggle to see the front facade of the building as you’re just too close to it.
You get a sense that Gallipoli still retains its sense of being a residents town. But you have to think that all the work that’s going on is probably making hotels and apartments. Over the next 50 years you can see residents selling up through economic or death events and the whole place becoming like Dubrovnik.
The last thing this town needs is a Cruise ship capable port!
By mid morning the place was filling up with tourists and a few tour parties. But nothing like Lecce.
And to be fair, while the architecture dates from around the same period and with the same sort of influences, Gallipoli is a much lesser Lecce.
By 12 we were ready for another coffee. So sat at a cafe just next to the cathedral, where a concert stage was being dismantled. There must have been no room at all for the concert in the narrow streets.
And so we started to think about heading back to our pickup point, but via the castle.
It was €5 each to get in, and money well spent. We had a guided tour and found out that:
- The Spanish occupied the city from the 14th to 18th C
- Olive oil pressing was the main export from the town. The oil powered many of the lamps across Europe, including England. It burnt more cleanly than other oils or candles.
- The castle was heavily fortified
- “Financial police” (we suspect tax collectors) controlled the importing and exporting of goods through the town
- 13th C frescoes just left to deteriorate having previously plastered over for admin offices
- Moat built over in 19th C for market. Who doesn’t need more flip flops, suntan lotion and fridge magnets? Shame about the dried sea creatures.
The castle is fairly small and has some fascinating hemispherical rooms. The largest of which was created in 1543 and has holes in the walls for gun slits and apertures halfway up the dome for cannon emplacements. The dome must be around 25m in diameter and the walls 4m to thick.
After the tour we were invited to wander the ramparts…
… and view the olive oil museum display. Oddly there was also a display of old telephones in the same room. Right up my street!
After the castle we left the island and had a look at the fountain (you can see it in the bottom left of the monstrosity picture above) and a small church that sits just off the island.
And then it was back to the shuttle minibus pickup. We rather miscalculated the route unfortunately and hadn’t taken in a railway line with no crossing points. So we had to double back and spend an extra 10 minutes, good job we left with plenty of time.
While waiting for the shuttle we couldn’t help ponder which way the port might be…
The shuttle was early but 5 minutes later we were back at camp.
After an hour or so’s sit down we headed out to Famila supermarket again for some tea, and finally a collander!
We’d been looking for a collander for a few weeks, but wanted something smaller than the norm. This one was perfect except for too much handle. So Captain Dremmel got to work (everyone takes a battery operated Dremmel camping don’t they!?) and the handle was no more!
We also bought a bug killing machine. Not sure we’ve got the right one, or even one that will work in the van, but Sue got right royally munched last night and I killed at least 6 mozzies in the van as we got ready for bed and in bed. Gotta try something better than we’ve been able to manage to date.
Not much else to report about the day. Except that we have been wondering whether a bigger van would be better for this sort of trip. After wandering around the campsite it seems the 6m van conversions seem popular, and give you a fixed bed, shower and loo. Hmmm.
These campsites can be quite pretty at night…
We’re off to Matera tomorrow, and to the Olive oil museum. We didn’t go to the similar museum in town today because we’d heard the one in Matera is better.
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