{"id":10060,"date":"2024-09-27T20:36:01","date_gmt":"2024-09-27T19:36:01","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/purplemeanie.co.uk\/?p=10060"},"modified":"2024-09-28T16:47:52","modified_gmt":"2024-09-28T15:47:52","slug":"day-54-matera","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/purplemeanie.co.uk\/index.php\/2024\/09\/27\/day-54-matera\/","title":{"rendered":"Day 54 – Matera"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Well\u2026 it\u2019s another one of those WOW! days. You can see why Matera got used in the latest No Time To Die, Bond film.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It was a reasonably leisurely start as we opted to take one of the two complimentary shuttles into town from the campsite. Which dropped us off at the end of the Main Street up through the town. There\u2019ll be more about shuttles and a near punch-up at the end of todays\u2019s instalment!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The shuttles ran at 9:30, 13:00, 16:00 and 20:00. We were planning on taking the 9:30 in and the 13:00 back. Then we\u2019d consider whether to bike or shuttle back in again if we were up to it. In the end we quickly decided we needed more time than the 3.5 hours that would give us, so we decided we\u2019d stick around until the 16:00 return and probably not go back in for the evening.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Dropped off in town<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Roughly speaking we wandered into the centre then headed for the cathedral, followed by a Cave House and then the Cave Churches. But this sounds a bit more planned than it was. We modified our route as we talked to the various guides at the main cistern and then the cathedral.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Matera has had people living in the caves and town continuously for over 8,000 years. The town was created by the Romans in the 2nd C BCE and the conversion of some cave houses into cave churches starting in the 8th C CE when Christianity hit the town. The Cathedral sits on a promontory (Cavita – also the administrative sector) that bisects the town into two valleys. Each valley side are called the Sassi and are where the peasant cave dwellings were cut into the rock. The historians go on about the use of \u201cnegative architecture\u201d – ie. carving stuff out of the rock to create building rather than adding stuff to the ground in regular \u201cpositive architecture\u201d.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

So, we headed down Via Domenico Ridola, which then turned into Via Del Corso. This took us past a couple of churches and some plazas.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Via Del Corso<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
This church liked skeletons<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Everywhere you look there are stunning views of bits of the town<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Lots of this architecture<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Which brought us to Plazza Vitoreo Vinito and the Polambaro Lungo. This wasn\u2019t one of our must do stops, but I always like a bit of historical engineering so we took a punt and paid the \u20ac3 each to have a look.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

And WOW! What a sight! Polombaro Lungo is a 5 million litre communal underground water storage vault. It\u2019s carved out of the fairly soft sandstone but lined with a terracotta plaster that makes it water tight (note to discuss pit linings with Joel! \ud83e\udd23). The cistern had been used for hundreds of years until the town population got to the point it needed a new water source so an aquifer was constructed in the 1920\u2019s and the cistern fell into disuse. Then the top access holes were built over and the town forgot what the cistern was. It was only when the town decided to relay the stone surface of the square that the cistern was rediscovered and divers went down to map it out. Now you can pay your Euros and descend into the vault. Here\u2019s some pictures\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
This was all buried until the square was repaved <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Polombaro Lungo 1<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Polombaro Lungo 2<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Polombaro Lungo 3<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Obviously the walkways wouldn\u2019t have been there originally, and it would have been full of water!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Polombaro Lungo was a definite highlight for us.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Next we head to the Cathedral, and had a coffee in the square outside. It was at this point we decided to stay for the 16:00 shuttle and we therefore had time to do the Cathedral.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Cathedral behind sculpture<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Nice water stand pipe to fill our bottles<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Outside the Cathedral<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

For the Cathedral you have to pay to go through a museum and then into the church.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Between the museum and the main Cathedral naive is this alter<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Cathedral is much more blingey than we saw at Lecce or Gallipoli<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Apparently lots of churches have crowns for giants, this was about a meter in diameter\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Big crown<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The views from the square outside the Cathedral are stunning, like many other vistas.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
View from Cathedral Square<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
The windy road is featured in No Time To Die<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

But also a rather grotesque griffin eating a baby!?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
What\u2019s this griffin eating?<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

From the Cathedral we tried to get into a cave house thing that turned out to be an audio visual experience\u2026 that was full (Casa Noah). We moved on and went to the Casa Grotta di Vico Solitario.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Casa Grotta was another bit of a punt. It was recommended on GPSmyCity and by the receptionist at the Cathedral Museum, but we didn\u2019t quite know what to expect. In the end there was a really interesting Cave House, a Snow Store Cave and a rock church cave and a video documentary in another cave.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Casa Grotta from the other side of the valley<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Cave House<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The Casa Grotta cave house was dressed as it would have been when it was vacated in the 1950\u2019s. The Italian government was so ashamed of the conditions that the 15,000+ inhabitants of the cave houses were living in, that they were all compulsorily evicted and rehoused in new settlements in the town. The cave houses became the property of the town.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Cistern, that collected and stored rain water in the cave house (with money thrown in by tourists!)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The video documentary was almost worth the admission fee itself.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

After the cave house we went to the main cave church, sat on atop a rock hill.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Santa Maria de Idris<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

This cave church is visible from many of the view points around the town. But you can\u2019t take pictures inside. So that outside shot is all you\u2019re getting!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Inside was an excavated cave dwelling with frescos dating from the 13th and 14th century. We found it off that these hugely important rock paintings (that\u2019s doing them a disservice) weren\u2019t protected in any way. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

From there we tried to go and see the Matera Olive Oil Museum (MOOM) and got lost \u2018cos the directions petered out. But when we did find it down a back street it was closed and viewings by appointment only! Grrr! <\/p>\n\n\n\n

So we then tried find some loos. The WC\u2019s marked on the map were either just not there, or were being cleaned – there were only two sets of loos shown on the tourist map. So we went into hunt of a cafe with a loo\u2026 easier said than done, many didn\u2019t have toilets or were restaurants that we didn\u2019t want.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In the end we were so desperate that we went to Gustibus where we went for a meat and cheese platter and some drinks. And a much needed loo stop.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
gustibus<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

We\u2019d spent nearly 6 hours in Matera at this point and it was time to head back to the shuttle pick up.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sue needed to have a picture of a self-service ice cream shop\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Self service ice cream shop<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

And then this is where things got a little weird and very irate.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We got back to the pickup point and found a couple of couples also waiting\u2026 with 3 dogs. As we waited a few more couples tuned up. So there were probably about a dozen people waiting\u2026 and 3 dogs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

When the shuttle arrived a guy with Marge Simpson interpretation of a head, and a woman were in the van. The couples with the dogs made to get into the van but the Marge guy said, only one dog per shuttle trip. But the dog couples still proceeded to get into the van with their dogs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We later couldn\u2019t decide if this was a health angle safety thing or a paid passenger thing\u2026 but it\u2019s a thing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Marge told the people they had to get out and they kicked off that they had 3 dogs. Then all hell broke loose. Marge totally lost his cool and started shouting and yelling for the people to get out of his shuttle. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Then Marge launched into the van and was nose to nose with one of the dog owners screaming at him to get out. Which they eventually did. We got offered their places at this point and we duly took them up, after I got this shot\u2026 Marge came wanting to us \u201cdid you understand my English – 1 dog per trip and wait for next bus!!!\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Marge on the right<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

All this time the woman shuttle driver was trying to stop the altercation and we presume calm Marge down. At one point Marge was shouting from the street into the van and a scooterist stopped to break up the altercation, we think. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Luckily for us, the woman drove us back to the campsite, and not Marge. The dog owners did get back, as we saw them later, but they were still demonstrating as our shuttle left.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

One of our shuttle occupants said he\u2019d had a run in with the dog owners the day before about parking somewhere they said he shouldn\u2019t. So the dog owners had got form. Even so, Marge was out of order.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Here\u2019s a few more pictures of Matera\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Matera 1<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Many streets like this<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Matera Cactus<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Cathedral spire is prominent whenever you look<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Valley running along eastern edge of town. We hope to be on the top right of it tomorrow\u2026<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
\u2026 where this guy is standing<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Great views everywhere<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Tomorrow we think we\u2019ll pack up and on our way to Paestum we\u2019ll see if we can find a view point that looks back onto Matera.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Well\u2026 it\u2019s another one of those WOW! days. You can see why Matera got used in the latest No Time To Die, Bond film. It was a reasonably leisurely start as we opted to take one of the two complimentary shuttles into town from the campsite. Which dropped us off at the end of the […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":10082,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"advanced_seo_description":"","jetpack_seo_html_title":"","jetpack_seo_noindex":false,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[53,52],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-10060","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-2024-summer-holiday-to-greece","category-travel"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/purplemeanie.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/img_20240927_192251_868-1.jpg","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p8yl38-2Cg","jetpack-related-posts":[{"id":10042,"url":"https:\/\/purplemeanie.co.uk\/index.php\/2024\/09\/26\/day-53-gallipoli-to-matera\/","url_meta":{"origin":10060,"position":0},"title":"Day 53 – Gallipoli to Matera","author":"John Martin","date":"September 26, 2024","format":false,"excerpt":"Another travel day\u2026 the relentless pull of the road never ceases! Not much to report today, and the Dashcam was playing silly buggers (needed the SD card reformatting) and so there\u2019s not much from there either. Camping Torre Sabea was a nice little site. Very tired, quirky, but we enjoyed\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "2024 Summer Holiday to Greece"","block_context":{"text":"2024 Summer Holiday to Greece","link":"https:\/\/purplemeanie.co.uk\/index.php\/category\/travel\/2024-summer-holiday-to-greece\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/purplemeanie.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/img_7981.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/purplemeanie.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/img_7981.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/purplemeanie.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/img_7981.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/purplemeanie.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/img_7981.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/purplemeanie.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/img_7981.jpg?resize=1050%2C600&ssl=1 3x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/purplemeanie.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/img_7981.jpg?resize=1400%2C800&ssl=1 4x"},"classes":[]},{"id":10107,"url":"https:\/\/purplemeanie.co.uk\/index.php\/2024\/09\/29\/day-55-matera-and-travel-to-paestum\/","url_meta":{"origin":10060,"position":1},"title":"Day 55 – Matera and travel to Paestum","author":"John Martin","date":"September 29, 2024","format":false,"excerpt":"It\u2019s another (mostly) travel day today. We\u2019re leaving the fabulous town of Matera and heading for Greek Paestum. But first we had to check out the \u201cother\u201d view of Matera, from the other side of the valley looking back at the town. We couldn\u2019t check out of the campsite until\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "2024 Summer Holiday to Greece"","block_context":{"text":"2024 Summer Holiday to Greece","link":"https:\/\/purplemeanie.co.uk\/index.php\/category\/travel\/2024-summer-holiday-to-greece\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/purplemeanie.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/746a1561-2-1.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/purplemeanie.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/746a1561-2-1.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/purplemeanie.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/746a1561-2-1.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/purplemeanie.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/746a1561-2-1.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/purplemeanie.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/746a1561-2-1.jpg?resize=1050%2C600&ssl=1 3x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/purplemeanie.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/746a1561-2-1.jpg?resize=1400%2C800&ssl=1 4x"},"classes":[]},{"id":9985,"url":"https:\/\/purplemeanie.co.uk\/index.php\/2024\/09\/25\/day-52-gallipoli\/","url_meta":{"origin":10060,"position":2},"title":"Day 52 – Gallipoli","author":"John Martin","date":"September 25, 2024","format":false,"excerpt":"After making our way yesterday from Brindisi to just outside Gallipoli, through Lecce, we were destined to head into Gallipoli today. It was a sunny start to the day, but way too early. We\u2019re right next to the loos at this site and the cleaners were chatting loudly to each\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "2024 Summer Holiday to Greece"","block_context":{"text":"2024 Summer Holiday to Greece","link":"https:\/\/purplemeanie.co.uk\/index.php\/category\/travel\/2024-summer-holiday-to-greece\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/purplemeanie.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/img_7892.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/purplemeanie.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/img_7892.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/purplemeanie.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/img_7892.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/purplemeanie.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/img_7892.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/purplemeanie.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/img_7892.jpg?resize=1050%2C600&ssl=1 3x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/purplemeanie.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/img_7892.jpg?resize=1400%2C800&ssl=1 4x"},"classes":[]},{"id":10470,"url":"https:\/\/purplemeanie.co.uk\/index.php\/2024\/10\/09\/day-65-home-again\/","url_meta":{"origin":10060,"position":3},"title":"Day 65 – Home Again","author":"John Martin","date":"October 9, 2024","format":false,"excerpt":"And so our mini adventure ends. There\u2019s not much to say about the day itself and I\u2019ll leave the conclusions to further posts where I hope to pull some more considered thoughts together about the trip. However, for today, we did manage to get off from our one night stop\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "2024 Summer Holiday to Greece"","block_context":{"text":"2024 Summer Holiday to Greece","link":"https:\/\/purplemeanie.co.uk\/index.php\/category\/travel\/2024-summer-holiday-to-greece\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/purplemeanie.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/img_8439.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/purplemeanie.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/img_8439.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/purplemeanie.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/img_8439.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/purplemeanie.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/img_8439.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/purplemeanie.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/img_8439.jpg?resize=1050%2C600&ssl=1 3x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/purplemeanie.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/img_8439.jpg?resize=1400%2C800&ssl=1 4x"},"classes":[]},{"id":8988,"url":"https:\/\/purplemeanie.co.uk\/index.php\/2024\/08\/17\/day-13-quiet-ride-to-buhl\/","url_meta":{"origin":10060,"position":4},"title":"Day 13 – Quiet Ride to B\u00fchl","author":"John Martin","date":"August 17, 2024","format":false,"excerpt":"We hadn\u2019t got much planned today as we\u2019d done a bit of exploring by bus yesterday and were planning to do one of the Black Forest key attractions, a water-fall, as we head out tomorrow. 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But\u2026. the weather is looking rubbish in this area for tomorrow and the day after, so we decided to go for it and get the bus to K\u00f6nigssee and the lake.\u2026 and\u2026 a near disaster! 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